Qatar had been sitting at the top of my travel bucket list for five years ever since I read an article claiming that Qatar Airways' Qsuite was routinely ranked as the number one business-class experience in the skies! Qatar's capital Doha is much less known than it’s neighbor, Dubai, but I felt the two cities are pretty similar now having traveled to both. Doha is more quiet and understated, and that is exactly what makes it so special. There are few tourists there as it seems quite undiscovered. Qatar is one of the richest countries in the world so it is well-designed and modern, and tourists can feel safe exploring, even solo like I did. Qatar is a hidden gem in the desert! The skyscrapers all have a futuristic design each one unique from the next with innovative designs mixing traditional Islamic motifs with modern aesthetics. Qatar is becoming the next Dubai. Qatar also has a rich cultural heritage, is famous for historically being pearl divers and hosted the FIFA World Cup in 2022.
I thought if I’m going to fly for 15 hours to get there I want to spend more than a few days in the region so I combined the trip with a visit to Oman as I’ve already been to Dubai. If you ever have a layover in Qatar, I will share why Doha deserves a spot on your travel bucket list with a list of things to do there.
I've now traveled to 10 countries in the Middle East and this vibrant city ended being one of my favorite cities. Qatar is one of the smallest countries and comparison Maryland is 3x the size of Qatar while Virginia is 10x bigger than Qatar. Qatar is about the same size as Connecticut. Qatar is one of the safest countries in the world, rated a level 1 on the US State Department travel warning page.
Qatar Airlines has daily nonstop flights to Miami, DC, NYC, Boston, Chicago, Dallas, Houston, and Atlanta; and they fly to San Francisco, Seattle, and Los Angeles with one stop. First let's talk about my flight experience. I was one of the few people on my plane that departed in Doha as everyone else used it as a transfer hub.
The seats are comfortable, include doors that close giving you ensuite privacy. Inside they had a decent amount of storage space. Next to the seat was a hidden cubby where I found noise-canceling headphones and a bottle of water. Each Qsuite faces either forward or backward, depending on the row. I didn't know this and selected seats flying backwards for both of my flights but it really didn't matter. The flight attendants made my bed with a mattress pad and duvet from The White Company. They added a throw blanket and dressed the larger pillow with a clean cover as well. In lie-flat mode, the seat measured 78 inches long. I got a faux-leather Diptyque amenity kit with body lotion and other goodies; pajamas and slippers. The seats' TV was 21.5 inches across diagonally with crisp resolution. The bathroom had a window.
The service on my flight was exemplary. The flight attendant taking care of my part of the cabin was friendly, cheerful. They set up my table with battery operated candles to eat. You get restaurant-quality food with on-demand dining meaning you eat when you want. I pre-ordered Asian Vegetarian food for the way there but on the way back they didn't have my order but still had vegetarian food on the menu for me to choose from. I was doing Dry January on the way there so there were so many mocktails/ smoothies/green juices to choose from and on the way back it was February so I tried the expensive wines. While watching a movie they brought me snacks like hot nuts or popcorn.
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Hamad International Airport, Doha, Qatar
Rated one of the best airports in the world! The dramatic, curving building silhouette recalls ocean waves and sand dunes to project a powerful image as Qatar’s gateway to the world. The architecture provides for a light-filled departure hall. In 2022 they opened the indoor tropical garden set to create a space to relax, rejuvenate, and recharge. The business class lounge at the airport was incredible too! They even had a separate bus just to pick up the business class passengers from the plane with more spacious seating!
Money
I never exchanged any money, I used my credit card everywhere.
Need to Know
Friday is the holy day of the week so many museums and businesses are closed or have reduced hours so plan accordingly. I sat at a bus stop for quite awhile before I realized the sign said it doesn't operate on Friday mornings.
What to Wear
Qatar is a Muslim country so you should dress modestly out of respect for local customs and traditions. Women should cover their shoulders, knees, and avoid revealing clothing. Men should also dress conservatively, avoiding shorts in public places. Lightweight, breathable fabrics are recommended due to the warm climate. Swimwear is acceptable at hotel pools and private beaches but should be covered when moving to and from these areas. I watched a youtube of a travel influencer who did not dress conservatively and people shouted to her to cover up and in other places propositioned her for sex. In my experience, no where did any man try to engage in conversation with me. I have traveled throughout Egypt and Jordan where I had many men try to talk to me, but I was very much, happily ignored in Qatar. Before my trip I googled modest Islamic clothing to buy to wear for the trip. Outside of my hotel, I always had on a long dress with a high neck line (no cleavage shown) or pants. Inside of my hotel, I dressed more casually.
Where to Stay
Mondrian Doha I stayed here and its described as a modern cultural fairytale as it's designed tell an Arabian Nights tale through a contemporary lens. My bedroom had a beautiful wall mural, crystal chandelier, huge bathtub, and step in Rain shower. The hotel is located next to the bay and is 24 stories high with a pool on the top floor. It has a spa, Turkish sauna, 5 restaurants, a huge rooftop outdoor bar with large flatscreen TVs with DJs at night, and they have a nightclub. I found it interesting that the staff was either expats from Eastern Europe or East Africa.
This was my bathtub, I took a bath every night! I've never been in a tub that big! In fact I can't even remember the last time I've taken a bath since my bathtub at home is so small. I was in heaven! I called up room service and asked if they had any bubble bath and not only did they bring up bubble bath and salts, they ran the bath for me!
hotel rooftop pool
Me in the hotel lobby & restaurant
Fairmont Doha located in the Katara Towers. The left half of the building is the famous expensive all-suite Raffles hotel. I visited both sides and the pool, as I went there for dinner and the service was exquisite!
Me in the entrance of the hotel
Raffles Lobby
Where to Eat
Qatar is a foodie's dream as it has incredible diversity in international cuisine. Two things Qatar is most known for it Chapati (a type of Indian bread) and karak (cardamom tea with milk), don't leave town without trying it. There's a fast casual chain called
Chapati & Karak that you will find in the airport. Shawarma and Falafel of course will be popular in this Middle Eastern Nation. Also samboosa (samosas) and Luqaimat sweet flour dumplings resembling donut holes (popular during Ramadan). All of these are streets foods you should be able to get as street foods. Here are the restaurants I went to:
Evergreen Organics in the Pearl vegan
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Public Transportation
I rode public transportation while I was there as I often do when I travel abroad as its a cheap way to get around and makes for a fun adventure. The metro was opened in 2019 just in time for when Qatar hosted the World Cup in 2022. There were no ticket booths, just self serve from the machine. I bought a day pass every day, it was pretty easy to figure out. They have 3 lines and platform barrier to protect people from falling onto the tracks. There are 3 types of train cars: a family car (single women and families but not solo men), gold car (for those who pay extra), standard car (men traveling alone). The design used old Islamic architecture elements in a modern way. Its uses the fastest driverless trains in the world.
General Info
Qataris make up 15% of population while foreigners are 85%. The largest portion are from South Asia and East Africa. Thus English is commonly spoken.
The locals dress traditionally in black abayas for women and the men wear a thobe a long white shirt dress with a traditional headdress. Alcohol is limitedly available only in high end hotels and a few western restaurants since Muslims don't drink alcohol. Prices are high since there's a 100% liquor tax. There's only one liquor store and it's only available to ex-pats with a government issued liquor license. During Ramadan it will be more restricted, for instance hotels may only serve alcohol via room service.
I went in their "winter" so it was 80s during the day and high 60s at night. In the summer the temperature can be between 105-122 degrees so they installed outdoor air-conditioning where cool air is pushed out of these ground grates. I heard that in the summertime the outdoors is quite empty during the day and people only come out at night. At several places I went to they had free golf carts to transport you between locations so you don't have to walk 5-10 minutes in the heat.
Katara Village
The Katara Village gives you a glimpse of Doha’s past and present with a blend of traditional and modern architecture, with buildings designed to reflect Qatar’s cultural heritage and Arabian styles. It has an open-air amphitheater, opera house, cinemas, conference halls, beaches, parks, and a traditional souq market. It’s a huge, wide-open area and the upscale French department store, Galeries Lafayette next door! It's free to walk through the Katara Village. Find Chapati and Karak Cafe to eat at.
Katara Mosque was built in 2011and has a large blue dome and towering minarets.
The pigeon towers were used by farmers to rise pigeons in order to collect their droppings for fertilizer, or for meat and eggs.
The Gold Mosque - made of shimmering gold tiles.
National Museum of Qatar
The architecture of the building itself is impressive, resembling a desert rose. The desert rose is a 100% natural sand stone made of gypsum salt and sand grains.
The museum offers an immersive experience that takes you through the history of the region, from prehistoric times to the present day. It has interactive exhibits, stunning artwork, and informative displays, and traditional costumes. Since I went in the morning I didn't get a chance to try the rooftop restaurant Jiwan that looks amazing at sunset on the balcony. Instead I went to the vegan cafe Thalatheen which is right outside of the museum that serves Qatari-inspired dishes.
General admission to MIA is 50 QAR ($14 USD). Closed on Tuesdays.
Below was a limited special exhibit at the museum that had an immersive video installation. There were 12,000 LED lights strung on cables throughout the gallery representing neurons, constantly firing and communicating with each other, programmed in choreography with a soundscape and video installation featuring abstract footage of Qatar’s landscapes.
Museum of Islamic Art
The museum is shaped in a stunning architectural cube-like geometric design on an artificial island in the Arabian Gulf. It houses one of the most important Islamic Art collections in the world with over 14,000 objects of Islamic art from across three continents, including old manuscripts, intricate metalwork, and colorful textiles. The artifacts date from the 7th century through the 20th century.
General admission to MIA is 50 QAR ($14 USD). Closed on Wednesdays.
The Pearl Qatar
The pearl is a man-made island of new coastline that is the first location foreigners are allowed to buy apartments. It got its name because Doha began as a pearl fishing village and the Pearl island is built on one of the country's historical pearl diving sites. By the way Qataris don't pay utilities, its subsidized by the government since they have so much oil money. On the Pearl you will find Mediterranean style yacht lined marinas, residential towers, villas, hotels, luxury boutiques, restaurants, artificial beaches and a replica of the Rialto Bridge in Venice. They call it the Arabian Riviera.
There is a free shuttle bus throughout the island for residents that has air conditioned bus stops. On Fridays it doesn't start until 1:30pm, see Friday/Saturday is the weekend in Muslim countries. The bus doesn't run until after Friday prayers, the holiest day of the week. I discovered that I can actually walk the entire length of the Pearl.
Of course I had to visit a perfume shop and I was in heaven as it had all the major niche perfume brands that you can't find at Sephora, plus Arabian brands.
Souq Waqif
This trading site is where Bedouins used to meet in ancient times. Souq Waqif is a traditional marketplace with a labyrinth of narrow alleys and maze of shops, lively atmosphere and bustling energy. It's an authentic Arabian atmosphere where you can get lost, haggle for souvenirs, and sample local delicacies. You can visit the Falcon Souq to see these majestic birds up close and learn about the importance of falconry in Qatari culture. There are also stables housing Arabian horses and pens with many camels. I wandered by at night and could smell the camels long before I could see them. See the Emiri guards traditionally ride camels.
Lots of retail therapy as there's a whole gold section to the souq, you can also see beautiful woodwork, hand-painted tiles, and colorful lanterns. The spice section is filled with large jute sacks of whole or ground spices of saffron, zatar, sumac, dried flowers, dried black lemons, and endless varieties of dates, honey, tea leaves and coffee beans. Learn about pearls since Qatar was at the heart of the pearl industry in days past. You will see many varieties from white, pink and grey pearls. You can buy Arabian oud and musk perfumes as well as Arabian makeup: kohl, argan oil and henna design stencils. Tip: Look for the Golden Thumb Statue. Many shops stay open until 11pm, so the souq is alive and awake into the night.
Doha Corniche
A waterfront promenade that I enjoyed walking around to admire the architecture. There were few people around.
Dhow Boat
Take a leisurely traditional dhow boat ride around the picturesque Arabian Gulf. Soak in the stunning views of the city’s skyline. Sunset is the best time to go. Reservations are not required You can simply walk up to the dock area and negotiate directly with the boat drivers for a ride.
Mina District
In the historic Old Doha Port is the vibrant Mina District where you will find pastel-colored buildings and stunning murals.
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