Last year I took a trip through some of the most incredible landscapes in Canada, and it honestly felt unreal. I took in the bright turquoise waters of Lake Louise and Moraine Lake, then rode the Banff Gondola up Sulphur Mountain where you can see six mountain ranges stretching out in every direction. I even floated down the Bow River, which was such a peaceful way to experience it all.
Driving the Icefields Parkway was easily one of the highlights. I stopped at Peyto Lake, hopped on the Ice Explorer to get right up to the Athabasca Glacier, and yes, I drank glacier water straight from the source. I spent time in the cozy town of Canmore too, and crossed into Montana, soaking up the wide open wilderness on the way toward Glacier National Park. The whole trip blended iconic stops with unexpected highlights, and somehow each view was better than the last.
After flying into Calgary, I drove about 1.5 hours along the Trans-Canada Highway to reach Banff. I spent nine days exploring Alberta, with a quick day trip into Montana. My base was Canmore, just 13 miles from Banff and connected by public bus. Staying in Canmore is more affordable, but I’d only recommend it if you’re planning to stay at least three nights. Banff itself is very walkable, with busy sidewalks and plenty to see within the town. Canmore, in contrast, has a relaxed, small-town vibe and is ideal for hiking or easy walking trails. One thing to note is that there’s no Uber or Lyft in either town, so plan your transportation accordingly.
Banff National Park
Lake Louise
Lake Louise is famous for its surreal turquoise water, created by meltwater flowing down from the Victoria Glacier on Mount Victoria. The fine glacial silt suspended in the water reflects sunlight and gives the lake its striking blue green color.
The snow covered peak at the end of the lake, Mount Victoria, was named after Queen Victoria. The lake itself was named after one of her daughters, Princess Louise.
I walked the Lakeshore Trail, an easy, mostly flat path with constantly changing views back toward the glacier and surrounding peaks. It is one of the most photographed places in Canada, and once you see it in person, you understand why.
Moraine Lake
Moraine Lake is another glacier fed lake, located 1,884 meters high near Lake Louise. It sits in the Valley of the Ten Peaks and is easily one of the most breathtaking views in the Canadian Rockies.
The intense emerald color comes from sunlight refracting off rock flour deposited by glaciers. Climb the Rockpile for the classic postcard view across the water toward the jagged peaks.
I got there at 9am and sat on a rock and waited for half an hour for the sun but eventually gave up so that's why I got this bad picture that looks like I was there at night. The sun does not reach the lake until about 10 am because the surrounding mountains block direct light, so timing matters if you want to see that vivid emerald lake.
Banff Town
The town of Banff is small, walkable, and full of people. Banff Avenue is lined with great restaurants, bars, shops, galleries, and museums. It is easy to explore on foot or by bike, and there is also a public bus that is filled with only tourists. However the bus was always full and would skip bus stops so once I had to run after the bus to the next stop and this was only possible because traffic was so bad that the bus moved slowly. Below is my favorite bus stop that I passed a couple times.
The Banff Gondola takes you to the summit of Sulphur Mountain in about eight minutes. At 2,281 meters above sea level, the views stretch across six mountain ranges. There is an interpretive center, a small theater, and a rooftop boardwalk with panoramic scenery in every direction. Go on a clear day because it is cloudy, you will miss the views entirely.
Nearby is the legendary Fairmont Banff Springs Hotel where I had a drink at Rundle Bar outside on the back patio, which truly feels like a castle set in the mountains. Cocktails are around 21 USD each, but they feel worth it for the setting alone. I ordered the Wildflower, a modern twist on a Negroni made with Rundle Bar Gin infused with butterfly pea flower, elderflower liqueur, Lillet Blanc, and plum bitters. Yes I only ordered it because it was purple!
I loved this sign in the hotel lobby! Felt like I was at a ski chalet in winter. This was taken in August.
Banff Upper Hot Springs
Next door, a soak in Banff Upper Hot Springs is the perfect way to end a day of hiking. The mineral rich water rises from nearly two miles below the earth’s surface and is heated geothermally. In summer, the water temperature reaches around 81°F. Admission is about 20 USD, with towel rentals available for a small fee. There's a sign that advises not staying in longer than 15 minutes.
The pool sits high in the mountains, framed by the peaks of Mount Rundle and Cascade Mountain. Visitors have been coming here since 1886.
The water contains high levels of sulphate, calcium, bicarbonate, magnesium, and sodium. Soaking in hot springs is known to help relax muscles, ease joint pain, improve circulation, and reduce stress. The warmth encourages better sleep and can leave you feeling calm and clear headed. Many people also believe the mineral content supports skin health.
There are many natural hot springs also in the area if this one looks too much like a pool, but the benefit is a locker room and showers to change.
Bow River Float
A float down the Bow River is one of the most relaxing ways to take in the scenery. The large rafts have elevated wooden floorboards, so your shoes stay dry the entire time. This is not a whitewater trip. There are no rapids, no crashing waves, just a gentle, scenic ride.
We launched at the base of Bow River Falls and floated about 4.3 miles downstream. Along the way, we passed Bow Falls with incredible views of Sleeping Buffalo, Cascade Mountain, and Mount Rundle. The riverbanks are lined with wildflowers and water birds, and you drift past the dramatic Hoodoos (rocks that look like chimneys) before landing at the towering north face of Mount Rundle. It is peaceful, easy, and perfect if you want mountain views without breaking a sweat.
Peyto Lake
In summer, glacial rock flour flows into the lake, and these fine suspended particles create that intense blue color you see in this photo that I did not color correct. Seeing it in person felt surreal, like stepping into a postcard!
From the parking lot, it is about a 15 minute uphill walk through sub alpine forest to the main viewpoint. It was very busy, with crowds gathering at the overlook for photos, so I said this is not the best place for a picture. Right before the platform is a waist-high wooden fence, and I swung my legs up and flipped my body over it. As I walked through the forest, to the opening down the side of the mountain, the view of the lake nestled between the mountains was breathtaking!
Canmore
I was walking through a neighborhood when two cyclists rode past me. A few minutes later I reached the spot where they had gone ahead, but they were nowhere in sight. I found myself at the end of a cul-de-sac. I figured they might have turned into one of the houses, but it didn’t seem likely. They looked like they were out for a relaxed ride, probably putting in some miles.
Then I spotted a small sign tucked between two houses. It was easy to miss if you weren’t paying attention. Curious, I followed it and discovered a hidden walkway running behind the homes, which lead to this bench I found.
Jasper National Park
The drive from Lake Louise to Jasper National Park along the Icefields Parkway is one of the most scenic roads in the world. The 144-mile route winds through the heart of the Canadian Rockies, passing glaciers, turquoise lakes, and waterfalls. Without stops, it takes about three to five hours, but it is best experienced as a full day trip so you can pull over often. The road itself is free to drive, though you need a valid Parks Canada pass since you are traveling through national parks. Jasper National Park was hit hard by a major wildfire in the summer of 2024 where 30% of the structures were lost. I saw the damage driving through the park where trees were all completely burned to a crisp.
On the border next to Jasper National Park is Columbia Icefield where I rode an Ice Explorer vehicle to tour the Athabasca Glacier. I drank glacier water straight from the source! The bus driver was super adamant that we all wear our seatbelts and it was because they had a crash the year before where the bus flipped over because the slope of the road to enter the glacier is 40%, so they only added seatbelts to the bus in 2025. These are giant diesel buses that you practically have to climb to get in. The wheel is as tall as I am. You can also book an ice walk.
Montana Glacier National Park
This is the old fashioned car that drove us through the mountain.
Bears
Bears are a regular part of life in Banff National Park and around Canmore. Both grizzlies and black bears are most active from spring through late fall, and it does not take a deep backcountry trek to be in their territory. Even on hikes close to town and near paved paths, I kept passing bear sighting signs. It is a good reminder that you are sharing the space.
Bear spray is easy to find at local shops, and it is worth carrying. Rangers told us to make noise while walking so you do not surprise any wildlife. Talk loudly with your hiking partner or clap now and then. Most bears prefer to avoid people and will move out the way if they hear you coming. Interestingly, researchers have found that some bears use established human made hiking trails because they are easier to travel than dense forest, which makes staying alert even more important.
One thing everyone repeats is never run. Stay calm, walk away slowly, and follow proper safety guidance. You might even smell a bear before you see it, especially if one has been feeding nearby. They love red berries, so if you notice fresh scat filled with berry seeds, that is your cue to turn around and head the other way.
All of these pictures I took on my trip because I couldn't believe it!
Top Things to Buy in Banff
Banff feels like one big gift shop in the best way. If you are looking for souvenirs, you will not come up empty handed. The obvious Canadian picks are maple everything. Maple syrup, maple cookies, and those maple leaf shaped candies are everywhere. I stopped at a local grocery store and grabbed a few chocolate bars we do not have in the United States. Alberta is big on beekeeping, so you will also see plenty of local honey around town.
I also wandered into a small soap shop where everything was made in house and picked up a few bars. And of course I had to try Canadian Ice wine while I was there. Ice wine is a dessert wine made from grapes that freeze naturally on the vine. They stay out through early winter and are only harvested once temperatures drop to at least about 17 degrees Fahrenheit. Much of it comes from Ontario’s Niagara region, and yes, it is expensive for a slim little bottle, but it is a classic Canadian splurge.
I made a quick stop at Lululemon (I'm a Collective Pinnacle member) on Main Street just to see if there was anything different from what we have at home. I also bought sunscreen and grabbed insect repellent at a pharmacy. Canada and the US regulate these products differently. In the US, the FDA has not approved new UV filters in decades, so American sunscreens rely on older ingredients. Many other countries, including Canada, allow newer filters that can offer strong, broad protection with lighter textures and less of a white cast.
What to Eat
Right on Main Street in Banff you will probably notice a long line outside COWS Ice Cream, and yes, it is worth the wait. This is a premium Canadian ice cream brand known for its rich 16% butterfat content, super dense texture, and minimal air, which makes every scoop feel extra indulgent. They use quality ingredients like Madagascar vanilla and berries from Prince Edward Island. COWS has been around for more than 40 years and rotates through more than 60 flavors, so there is a lot to choose from beyond the basics. I of course got maple flavor. The best dinner I had on the trip was at The Roaring Rolls Indian restaurant in Canmore.
Where to Stay
I stayed in Canmore at the Coast Canmore Hotel. It’s a solid three-star option with big, clean rooms, on-site restaurants, and a convenient location. In the winter, rooms run around $130 USD per night, and in summer they jump to $450.
Banff will cost you more. The Fairmont Banff Springs Hotel is iconic, with winter rates around $468 and summer rates hitting $1600 per night. If that’s out of reach, the Banff Park Lodge is worth considering. It looks like a rustic lodge, but it’s actually a four-star property. Winter rates are $190, and summer climbs to $852.
One thing to note: summer reservations in Banff sell out months in advance. The town sees over four million visitors a year, and hotel development is limited because it’s surrounded by protected national park land. That combination of high demand and restricted supply drives prices up, especially in peak season.
Hotel pricing today works a lot like airline tickets. Algorithms track supply and demand and adjust rates constantly. It’s part of a larger system where hotels share data with third-party software companies, effectively controlling pricing across many properties. A similar system exists in airline booking, companies like Amadeus provide the technology behind ticketing, which is why airline booking experiences feel so similar. There was a class action lawsuit about this in the US, but the hotels won.
Banff is an international destination, attracting visitors from Europe, Asia, and around the world. That "trip-of-a-lifetime" mindset also pushes rates higher, and with algorithm-driven surge pricing, the numbers can feel astronomical. Banff has been on my bucketlist for 10 years!
If you’re visiting in summer, plan ahead and book as early as possible to lock in a rate you’re comfortable with. Canmore offers slightly more reasonable options only 15 miles away.
Final Thoughts
No matter how you plan it, a trip through Banff, Canmore, and the surrounding Rockies is unforgettable. From the turquoise lakes and glacier-fed rivers to the cozy mountain towns and wildlife encounters, every day offers something new to marvel at. Staying in Canmore gives you a slightly more relaxed, budget-friendly base, while Banff puts you right in the heart of the action. Whatever you choose, plan ahead, especially in summer, and be ready for awe-inspiring scenery around every corner. This region is a full sensory experience, one that will stay with you long after you’ve left.
Related posts:
Calgary: Where the Prairies Meet the Peaks
San Francisco Travel Itinerary
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